The forest didn't last until bedtime unfortunately. Within an hour of crossing the pass I had lost 1000ft. I happily wound my way through the tall pine woods with occasional far reaching views to the far off lightly dusted peaks of the continental divide.
Then, before I knew what had happened, my dreams of spending the night swinging in my hammock in the woods evaporated. Whizzing down the hills gravity ejected me from the mountain forests into the open country of South Western New Mexico.
This part of New Mexico is pasture lands. High plateaus of undulating grassy hills. For a while there was not a tree to be seen, just the odd juniper bush dotted around on the hillsides or on the roadside fence line. I Imagine the grazing cattle may keep the woody plants from growing back.
Looking off into the distance I could see for miles and miles, away to higher hillsides with their greater covering of bushes and beyond those the bulky black mountains that make up the continental divide.
The grasslands are open and dry. There's not a fence to be seen save the one separating the ranches from the roadside. Nor is there a single solitary cactus. Although having the feel of a valley floor, surrounded by mountains as they are, the New Mexico Grassy plains are at 5000ft. Perhaps this high country is too much for our spiky friends from Arizona?
With so little cover and such clearly valued land, The chances of finding a sneaky free campsite seemed pretty slim. I was pondering my options.
As the shadows were growing long, having eaten all my food I stopped at a local shop in a tiny village to pick up some supplies.
There were 5 people in the shop, some staff, some clientele, however it soon became very apparent they all knew each other well. As everybody knows everybody out here it would seem.
They all turned to stare at me but none offered the usual greeting I have come to expect from storekeepers in the US. They just fell silent and stared. As if no one new had ever walked through that door before.
It was a true tumbleweed moment, I was just waiting for someone to utter the immortal words, "You're not from round here are you boy?".
Magic! I wish I could bottle that moment and keep it forever.
Ordering a sandwich seemed to break the ice but they didn't warm up too quickly mind you. My approach of acting like I knew I was meant to be there combined with quiet but good manners seemed to win them round to an extent.
Still, overall these New Mexican Cattlemen made the tight lipped Arizonan men seem gushing!
If New Mexico is like this I thought, I'd better go to an RV park to camp until I've got the measure of the place. Otherwise I might wake up staring down the barrel of a shotgun.
The leathery skinned park owner was a man of few words too he didn't smile easily either, but the fee was small. He showed me the piece of ground where folks can put up a tent. Then just as he was about to leave me to it a kind thought seemed to cross his mind: realising I might get a bit cold at night here he suggested I sleep on the floor in the laundry instead of tenting for the night.
What luxury- electric light, power to plug in the notebook,running water and I don't think it even went below freezing in there! I was the cat who'd got the cream. Stars are nice in the valley or round the campfire but it's good to warm up of an evening every now and then.
It was 20 degrees F that night outside. probably will be tonight too.
Thank you quiet unsmiling man your small kindness made a big difference to me.
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