Note from the East Texas Pine Forests, 12/1/2010

I have entered a different world, perhaps a taste of things to come.

They have an expression here in Texas, a variation a theme heard all over the world:
"If you don't like the weather in Texas, wait a while and there'll be something different along."

In my limited experience there is some truth to it. However I have been to places with far more fickle weather, notably small temperate islands.

To me the weather in Texas seems relatively stable, a front comes in and everybody knows it's coming well in advance. It stays for a few days or maybe a week then something new but not drastically different comes by.

Perhaps a more relevant expression for me would be:
"If you don't like where you are in Texas, ride for a few days and you'll be somewhere remarkably different."


This new world I've entered is one of huge pine forest with dense understorey vegetation, often so thick it would be impenetrable pushing the bike. It's a world of tranquil lakes and muddy brown creeks, of dawn chorus and things that go bump in the night.


This is the world of the Sam Houston National Forest and surrounds, one of the places in Texas earmarked for outdoor recreation for the masses. All manner outdoor activities are taking place here hunting (both shooting and archery), biking, hiking, camping, horse riding, fishing, boating.

There is a hiking trail over 100 miles long, 'The Lone Star Trail' is the only one in Texas. There's even a small wilderness area where wild camping is actually permitted.

This National Forest is a wonderful place.

I spent the night in my hammock deep in the forest, beside a peaceful lake. A beaver swam by as I put up my bed, the first I'd ever seen.

Brilliant.

Although I left no trace of my stop over, others had not been so careful. The path on the way into the woods was littered with hundreds of coffee and soda cups along with other rubbish.

Leaving the park this moring I expected a return to tiresome grazing country but it was not forthcoming. There are houses amongst the trees, fields, sometimes even whole towns but overall there is a feeling of living inside the forest.

The humidity is on the increase giving the place a sub tropical feel. Although it is not hot, I can feel it in the middle of the day. I am peeling of the layers as I sweat my way up the little hills.

The demographic is different here too. The churches' names have taken on an Evangelical tone - like Missionary Baptist , New Hope or Gospel. This land was settled by the freed slaves long ago and their descendants are all around.

Until now I have only come across African Americans in the major cities. Here in far east Texas they are very much a part of country life and seem to make up the majority of the populations living in the small towns.

So far I like it around here. I am camping deep in the dark woods tonight, without trespassing on private land. It is much more pleasant than a roadside camp, even if the roads are incredibly quiet out west.

There is a wonderful feeling of being in amongst nature here. When I'm tucked up in my bed, the forest comes alive at night. I have no idea what is out there but I like the way it sounds.

I know bears, cougars and pigs live in far east Texas. The bears at least are very rare indeed.

I cook and eat in one place and tie my food up high, suspended between two trees. I sleep somewhere else, a good distance away. Hopefully this stops animals getting attracted to my location, which in turn stops the cougars from getting attracted to the other animals.

I think the hammock is a safer choice than the tent. I can tie it up high and sleep out of reach of the wild pigs that roam these woods. Tonight it was so high up I could only just get in!

I like the promise of warmer climes to come and different people to meet too. It is good to have something to look forward to. This donkey needs a carrot to chase.

Louisiana is now only a couple of days away now.